Bath has been a place of wellness for almost two thousand years. The Romans built their famous bathing complex here, drawn to the city’s natural thermal springs. Today, you can still visit those same ancient waters at the Roman Baths, and just across the street, step into the modern continuation of that legacy — Thermae Bath Spa.
It’s a unique experience in the UK, and somewhere I’d wanted to visit for years. Those photographs of the rooftop pool, steam swirling into the air over the Georgian skyline, had been tempting me for too long. Eventually, we made it happen.
A long-awaited spa day in Bath
After months of saying “one day”, my husband and I finally arranged childcare and booked a Thermae Welcome package at the New Royal Bath. It included a two-hour spa session, robe, towel, slippers, and access to all the pools and wellness areas. At around £37 each, it first seemed a little indulgent for a short visit, but after going, I’d happily say it was worth every penny.
We arrived on a crisp September morning, Bath glowing gold in the sunshine. The entrance to the spa looks sleek and modern against the city’s Georgian stone, yet somehow fits perfectly — like the modern world’s nod to the Romans’ love of luxury bathing.
Inside the Minerva Bath
After changing into robes and slippers, we followed the bright, white staircases to the Minerva Bath — the indoor thermal pool named after the Roman goddess of wisdom and healing. The walk there felt almost surreal. Everyone draped in white robes, walking silently up curved steps, steam rising through glass walls. It felt like stepping into a futuristic dream sequence.
The pool itself was wonderfully warm — the kind of warmth you can feel soaking into your muscles within seconds. I must have said more than once, “why can’t every swimming pool be this temperature?”
We drifted around the lazy river section, letting the gentle current carry us. There’s also a whirlpool area and underwater jets that gently massage your shoulders. It was bliss. Time slowed right down, and for once, there was nothing to think about except how good it felt to just float.
The famous rooftop pool
Next came the part I’d been most excited about — the open-air rooftop pool. We stepped out into the cool September air, robes around us, then slid into the steaming water. It was busy, but we managed to find a spot by the edge overlooking the rooftops of Bath.
The contrast was incredible: chilly air above, warm mineral water below, and the afternoon sun on our faces. For a few minutes, I completely forgot I was in England. With my eyes closed, it felt like I was abroad, somewhere sunny and still.
We stayed there for ages, just relaxing, chatting quietly, and taking in the view. From up there, you can see Bath Abbey and the surrounding hills. It’s easy to understand why this is the highlight for so many people — the combination of heat, fresh air, and scenery is pure escapism.
Exploring the Aroma Steam Rooms
Eventually, we tore ourselves away from the rooftop and went to explore the Aroma Steam Rooms. These glass pods sit in the Wellness Suite, each one filled with scented steam: eucalyptus, lemongrass and ginger, sandalwood, and lotus flower.
I’m not naturally a big fan of steam rooms — I always feel like I can’t quite breathe properly — but I gave each one a try. The lemongrass and ginger room was my favourite, fresh and soothing at the same time. Within minutes, the heat brings a gentle sweat, which somehow feels cleansing.
After a few minutes in each pod, we cooled off in the relaxation area before heading back down to the pools.
Back to the Minerva Bath
We couldn’t resist one last float around the lazy river before leaving. The water jets are surprisingly strong, and one gave my shoulders a massage better than some I’ve paid for. It was the perfect way to end our visit.
After two hours, we both felt genuinely refreshed. Relaxed but energised, calm yet awake — that rare combination you only get after true downtime.
Why Bath is the perfect spa city
Bath’s charm lies in how effortlessly it blends history with modern life. You can spend the morning walking through ancient Roman ruins, have lunch in a Georgian tearoom, then soak in natural thermal water overlooking the same skyline.
If you’re spending a weekend here, the Roman Baths are an essential visit before or after your spa session. It gives you real perspective — the water bubbling beneath your feet is the same that Romans worshipped for its healing powers nearly two millennia ago.
Bath also makes a wonderful base for exploring nearby countryside spots such as Castle Combe village in the Cotswolds or the scenic Cheddar Gorge.
Is Thermae Bath Spa worth it?
For us, absolutely. It’s not an everyday treat, but for a birthday, anniversary, or “we need a break” kind of day, it’s spot on.
The two-hour session felt just right — long enough to unwind, not long enough to get bored. The rooftop pool alone is worth the visit, and the mix of ancient tradition and modern comfort makes it feel truly special.
Next time, I’d love to go in the evening when the city lights up below. Floating in the rooftop pool under the night sky sounds like a whole new level of calm.
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