Colourful striped houses right on the beach, it looks like one of the most photogenic places in Portugal.

But what’s it actually like to visit?

We spent two nights in Costa Nova as part of our Spain and Portugal family road trip in April, arriving late in the dark after our overnight ferry crossing and a long drive across Spain and Portugal.

The next morning we were visiting family in Viseu, then heading all the way south to Salema in the Algarve.

That meant we only had one full day here, and so the weather was just whatever it was going to be.

And honestly, our experience wasn’t quite the sunny postcard you might expect!

What are the Costa Nova striped houses?

The famous striped houses in Costa Nova are known as palheiros.

Originally, they were simple wooden storage buildings used by fishermen to store nets and equipment safely away from the sea.

Over time, they were turned into homes and painted in bold, colourful stripes, often in red, blue, green or yellow.

The stripes weren’t just decorative – they also helped distinguish the buildings along the coastline.

Today, they’re one of the most recognisable sights in Portugal.

What it’s like to visit Costa Nova

Our visit didn’t quite match the bright, sunny images you often see online.

We went in early April, and while we’d had a spell of warmer weather the week before in Cornwall, Costa Nova felt completely different.

It was cloudy, windy, chilly, and there was even a bit of rain.

In fact, we wore more layers here than we did back home in the UK!

That’s spring for you. Even in Portugal and Spain, you can get some baking hot days, but if the clouds, wind or rain come in, it can feel surprisingly cold.

On our only full day, we set out along the wooden boardwalk built over the beach and sand dunes, towards the lighthouse, which is the tallest lighthouse in Portugal.

It’s a beautiful walk, but very exposed with the bad weather we had that day.

The wind and cold made it tough, and eventually my daughter and I turned back while my husband and son carried on.

On the way back, we took the road instead of the boardwalk, hoping it would feel more sheltered and warmer.

That’s when we started noticing more of the architecture.

Not just the striped houses, but so many unique buildings.

The striped houses somehow reminded me of circus tents, though they are really symbolising beach huts and fishermen’s huts!

There were houses on stilts, pointed roofs, bright blues, pinks, yellows, and more ornate designs too.

There’s a lot more to Costa Nova than just the striped houses. There’s a whole collection of unique architectural builds here.

Because of the weather, we didn’t end up exploring as much as we’d planned that day, but I knew I was keen to see more after having a taste of some of the buildings near to where we were staying.

We headed back to the apartment instead, and family who live in Portugal came over to see us. We had a takeaway and spent some time together instead, inside, in the warm!

Though we did pop out to catch the sunset before they left for home, and enjoyed having Costa Nova beach to ourselves.

Making the most of a short visit to see the famous Costa Nova striped houses

The next morning made all the difference.

We got up early before leaving so we could explore properly for a couple of hours.

This time, the weather was sunnier and warmer, and we headed straight to the promenade at Praia da Costa Nova, where most of the striped houses are.

I’m so glad we made the effort to get up early.

We’d meant to do this the day before, but it was just too cold and windy to enjoy it.

That short morning walk gave us the experience we were hoping for.

It was quiet, peaceful, and we finally got to see the colourful houses properly.

We wandered along the promenade, admiring everything and wishing we’d had more time.

It almost feels like an island, with water on both sides, the sea on one side and the calmer lagoon on the other, which from ground level can feel more like a river.

That unique setting adds to the charm of the place.

Best things to do in Costa Nova

Costa Nova isn’t packed with attractions, but that’s part of its appeal.

It’s more about slowing down and taking it all in.

• Walk along the promenade to see the striped houses
• Explore the wooden boardwalk along the beach
• Visit the lighthouse
• Take a beach walk, especially at sunset
• Look out for the wide range of unique architecture

We even had the beach entirely to ourselves while watching the sunset, which made it feel even more special.

Is Costa Nova worth visiting?

Yes, it is.

The striped houses are genuinely unique, and there’s a lot more interesting architecture than we expected.

But it’s worth setting expectations.

If you visit out of season, it can feel quiet, and some places may be closed.

We went in early April, and many restaurants and beach bars weren’t open yet.

That said, it’s easy to imagine how different it would feel in summer.

There are loads of beach bars and restaurants along the strip, many with fire pits, wooden features, and relaxed, boho-style decor. It looks like the kind of place that would have a great vibe when it’s warm and busy.

It would be a great place to stay for a few days in the summer, even a week.

You could also do more while you’re there in warmer weather, like hiring a boat or exploring the surrounding lagoon areas.

It’s also not far from areas where you might spot flamingos at certain times of year, which could be a nice addition to your visit.

Tips for visiting Costa Nova

A few things we learned from our visit:

• Dress for the wind, even outside of winter
• Check the weather before you go
• Don’t expect guaranteed heat in spring
• Visit early or late for a quieter experience
• Combine it with nearby places to make the most of your trip
• Pop your comfy shoes on and explore on foot, admiring the incredible and unique architecture

Final thoughts

Costa Nova is a beautiful and unique place, and the striped houses are just as eye-catching in real life.

But it’s not always the sunny, warm destination you might expect, especially outside of summer.

If you catch it on a warm, calm day, it would be incredible.

For us, even with the cold and wind, it was still worth visiting.

And it’s somewhere we’d love to return to and experience properly in better weather.

Costa Nova in Portugal is known for its colourful striped houses along the beach, making it a worthwhile stop, especially when combined with nearby coastal towns and attractions.